In addition, it should be placed around window and door handles and other holes to keep water from getting onto the interior panels. All water should be redirected back into the inside of the door, where it drains out the small drainage holes at the bottom of the door.
Tape the bottom corners of the shield to the door as the factory did. If your door has been hacked and has large holes for speakers, use some heavy-duty thick-mil plastic for a patch panel to direct water back into the interior of the door as you did with the water shield.
The factory also had a large round plug on the interior face of each door at the bottom near the door hinges. If yours are missing or broken, get new ones or add a patch over those holes too.
The strip caulk is around the entire perimeter of the water channel. Simply press the shield into the caulk to seal it. Reproduction watershields come in paper as they did from the factory with one black side, which is water resistant.
Watershields are also available in clear plastic and are much more durable than the paper ones. The clear plastic ones allow you to see how well you sealed the watershield to the door, and they allow easier future repair of door internals with less potential to damage the door upon removal. A lot of design work went into getting water out of the car when it gets into the body, as well as keeping water out of the interior.
There are drains in the rocker panels, at the bottom of the tulip panels sides of the cowl panel , bottom of quarter panels below the quarter windows , and at the bottom of the doors. In order for these drains to operate as designed, there must not be dirt and other debris clogging them. These long slots allow all kinds of leaves and pine needles to fall into the cowl. These unfortunate gifts from nature work their way over the sides of the cowl inside the tulip panels and get trapped behind the fresh-air vents in the kick panels.
If you combine 40 years of dust and dirt with a bunch of degraded leaves and pine needles, and then mix in a little water from rain or washing your car, all of the sudden the drain at the bottom of the tulip panel is clogged. The unwanted debris becomes damp and stays damp, which is a perfect environment for rust. The kick panels are sealed to the metal around the fresh-air grille with dum-dum to keep water from leaking into the interior behind the kick panel.
Make sure you remove all the screws from the panel before trying to detach it. If you have a with the separate grille, make sure you remove the screws behind it. On models, make sure you also remove the vent cable from the upper vent. These cables are very fragile, so be careful not to break them. The easiest technique for removing the kick panel is to pull it away from the side of the car with your fingers behind the panel and against the firewall around the fresh-air duct.
Once the duct is loose from the hole in the side cowl, the rest of the removal requires maneuvering the doorjamb area of the panel, and pulling it the rest of the way from the side cowl. The strip caulk is applied to the vent area on the kick panel before installation, so that it can keep the water from getting into the car through the fresh-air duct.
The caulk stays pliable. We went back over the area with another coat of KBS RustSeal and BackBone Reinforcing Mesh for a much stronger rusted area, and then we used the KBS RustSeal on this floor pan that had an extremely small section of rusty pin holes not enough to warrant panel replacement. This car will be driven a lot, so we added a Thermo-Tec heat-and-noisesuppressor mat to make the ride more enjoyable.
We laid it out right over the KBS after it had fully cured. We were careful not to get the sticky product in fastener holes where it can gum up the hardware. To ensure it is securely laid down on the floorpan, a small handheld wooden roller was used to press it down into the contours of the floor.
Originally, the carpet was designed to be installed over the factory tar-andcotton underlayment. The jute padding is attached to the carpet to help fitment. If you cut the carpet too short, add more jute to make fitment easier. To flatten out the underlayment, heat it with a hair dryer.
If your he carpet arrives rolled up in a box, find room to lay the carpet out for a few hours to inspect it for unnatural warpage. Do not trim or cut the carpet before you put it in the car. This is a good time to take care of last-minute details that may have been overlooked console nutserts, body plugs, shifter holes, etc. Use an ice pick or an awl to find the holes for the seats, seat belts, and other accessories.
For anything larger than a trim screw, cut a hole in the carpet for the bolts. Cutting an X instead of a hole is a sure-fire way to snag the carpet during installation of the bolts. With the kick panels removed, clean out all the debris. Once the debris is removed, use a piece of wire hanger to clear out the drain at the base of the cowl. Dribble some water down in there to get out the rest of the dirt and degraded leaves.
If you really want to protect your investment, also clean out the inside cowl panel plenum. Take a small brush and clean all the seams you can reach. Use KBS products or some other rustpreventative paint to coat every inch inside the side-cowls and the inside of the cowl plenum and seal all of the seams with seam sealer, except the drains. To further protect the seam sealer, add a coat of gloss KBS topcoat or another brand paint to give water a smooth surface, so it exits the drain faster in the future.
The dum-dum is a non-shrinking waterproof sealant that stays pliable like clay. You need to use it when reinstalling the kick panels to get a secure seal. Never use any kind of silicone-based sealant or cement in these areas. That would probably glue the panel to the steel and you would need to destroy the panel in order to remove it in the future. To help line up the screw holes when reinstalling the panel, stick an awl or an ice pick through the existing hole in the kick panel into the hole in the metal side-cowl.
The doors and quarter panels have drains for all the water that gets into the panel through the window and the side-glass weatherstripping. There could be a lot of small bits of glass in the doors or quarters if your side glass has ever been broken, so be careful. Clean and rinse the drains the same way as suggested for the cowl areas.
Dry them completely and treat them with KBS products or some other rust-inhibitor product , seam seal, and paint as instructed for the cowl areas. Original floor covering was percent rayon and percent nylon looped carpet molded to fit the contours of the floorpan. Made of two pieces, the rear half is installed first and the front section is installed over the top of the rear half. The factory carpet seam is directly in front of the front seats.
With the front seats installed, you should be able to lift the front carpet without unbolting the seats. In other words, the carpet lays directly over the front-seat bracket feet, not under them. Ken Howell of Auto Custom Carpets says that the loop carpet is correct for the restoration, but the cut-pile lasts longer and is what all the new cars use.
Most carpet kits come with the additional small sections of jute padding attached to the back side of the carpet as they were from the factory.
Unless your Camaro has been well maintained for its whole life, the dash pad probably needs to be replaced. Over the years, it gets sunbeaten and develops cracks from merely touching it. Certain aftermarket dash pads have been of notoriously bad quality compared to original and fitment.
They are produced of a harder urethane than the stock dash, even though the stock one has hardened over the years. OER started producing a much nicer dash pad than its older design. The newer-design OER dash could be developed because the more reasonable cost of newer technology has made it possible to create a completely new dash pad with better materials. Al Knock Interiors also produces dash pads for Camaros, so check its products too.
If you want your original, aged dash pad rebuilt, Just Dashes is one of the sources that can reproduce and dash pads, as long as you send your original pad.
The process is more expensive than good reproductions, but customers have been happy with the results. Even though its name implies otherwise, Just Dashes rebuilds and repair just about any padded or hard-plastic part of the interior.
To remove your dash pad, you have to remove the sheetmetal nuts under the top dash panel and the screws from the front. The procedure with the dash is the same, but it has additional hardware and a clip on the end of the legs that drop off on both ends of the pad.
Each dash pad leg has a post that sticks out and is pushed into a clip in the sheetmetal dash. Use pliers to pinch the clip on the top and bottom, and the clip pops off the pad and out of the dash.
Or, you can stick a screwdriver in the clip from the back of the dash and pry the clip open. The dash has clips that slide into the top of the dash and are held in with sheetmetal nuts and screws. They are a little easier to remove if you can gain access from behind the dash. The first-generation Camaro center console is cast-in plastic, with a few metal brackets, trim, and doors.
A common part to break on all first-generation consoles is the plastic ashtray door pivot points. The weakest part of the and console that seems to be broken a lot is the plastic between the console door and the ashtray door.
Luckily, OER reproduces them, and most the parts sources sell the console in parts or as complete kits. The console was a one-yearonly piece for the Camaro, and the — Firebird with different trim on the top shared the basic console.
The and Camaro console was not used in any other production car. There are a few extra dimples, so set your console on the tunnel to identify the right holes. There are two of them, side by side, in front, which are the exact width of the console bracket. The two front holes require nuts to be attached to the bracket from under the car, and the other two require nutserts to be mounted to the tunnel.
The transmission tunnel has dimples shown here on a tunnel to locate your drill bit in order to drill the holes for mounting the center console. Be careful though, there are a couple more dimples than needed. To lock the cover to the seat frame, use some hog-ring pliers and hog rings. These pliers are available from Eastwood in straight or angled versions. Lock the fabric in the same places it was connected originally. Now the seat looks as good as new.
The bordering material was the standard Madridgrain vinyl with the special inserts. Starting in you could purchase the ever-popular houndstooth seat inserts when you ordered the Deluxe interior. In you could only get Houndstooth with black or pearl parchment vinyl borders, but in you could order additional borders and Houndstooth colors. The interior has standard buckets, standard interior panels, mph speedometer, console, and Z23 wood-grain accents on gauge cluster, wheel, and center console.
The console mounts in a similar fashion to the and console, but not exactly, so pick up a copy of the Camaro Assembly Manual for all the proper measurements and schematics. The factory seats were available in many different colors and materials. There was a standard interior for coupes and convertibles with a vinyl bench front seat except or vinyl bucket seats. The deluxe interior seat package featured a front bench seat except or front bucket seats, all with at least the Madrid-grain border material, but there were changes for each model year.
In , the deluxe seats had all the interior colors available with a contrasting accent band. In , the deluxe seats came with inserts that were color matched to the borders. Also available in was the black-and-white houndstooth pattern available with black or pearl parchment borders. It was color matched with the border color, available in black, red, blue, Medium Green, and Dark Green.
Chevrolet did away with Madrid vinyl inserts, but offered four Houndstooth color options: black and white with black borders, black and white with ivory borders, black and orange with orange borders, and black and yellow with yellow borders. Today, the law requires installation of headrests in an automobile because they keep your head from whipping backward in a rearend collision, which can at the very least give you whiplash. In , AS2 headrests were on 2, of , Camaros.
New regulations for , which took effect January 1, , drove Chevrolet to add headrests in all models, but the Camaros could be special ordered with deleted headrests for an additional cost. Then Chevrolet switched to a wider and shorter headrest for the rest of the model year. In Chevrolet slightly redesigned the headrest, but not by much, and it can be identified by the post length 10 inches in and 11 inches in Two different headrests were offered.
The earlier version was in exact alignment with the seat, which had a slight backward slant. The later versions were angled slightly forward. The headrest post is the part that was bent and differentiates the two. The posts have their build dates etched on them for , but earlier headrest stamps were not actual dates.
The original factory plastic steering wheels are typically cracked and need a little repair or replacement. A couple of companies, such as Eastwood and KBS Coatings, sell products to repair the plastic steering wheels. Apparently the keys to good results are initial preparation, a good strong product that will not shrink when it dries, your skill level to make the repair undetectable, and the proper paint that will stand up to the abuse of being handled while driving.
This RS Camaro has a smooth band between the two grooves instead of the distressed leather grain. During the model year, there were two similar steering wheels available with the same option designation. This is a Yenko note tach location with standard interior.
Unknown 7 Items 7. Georgia 4 Items 4. OER 41 Items The Parts Place Inc. General Motors 33 Items Chevrolet 15 Items Ford 6 Items 6. Dodge 4 Items 4. Manufacturer Warranty. Lifetime 26 Items None 16 Items Performance Part. Yes 28 Items No 24 Items Universal Fitment. No 6 Items 6. Yes 6 Items 6. Vintage Car Part. Yes Items New Items Used Items Check out our selection of console gauges for your Camaro here which includes the volt gauge. No problem! Check out our complete console gauge assembly with the volt gauge.
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